Salut Fort Bahla Oman Archaeological Site near Bisya is well worth visiting - if its made possible by the Oman government

Salut, Bahla Oman the archaeological site is some 26km southwest of Bahla in northern Oman. It may well turn out to be at the centre of the most important Oman archaeology site.

However, it’s hardly known and is, at the moment, not ‘open’ for casual visits. If entry is permitted I have included it in my updated Bradt Guide to Oman, below.

Salut, Bahla Oman Archaeological Site
Salut, Bahla Oman Archaeological Site – scale see people on hill.

The site is at the flood plain formed by the confluence of several water courses, especially Wadi Bahla and Wadi Sayfam and when founded might have been, as it is now, an agricultural area.

The name Salut ( سـلـوت ) is associated with two legends in Oman, both with historical characters. Possibly the most ancient for the period recounted is a visit by King Solomon on a journey between Jerusalem and Persepolis on his magic carpet, with for added charm an eagle living there, which causes King Solomon to swoop down. King Solomon instructed his genie to build 1,000 aflaj for each day he was in Oman. Clearly the eagle was talkative as 10 days later King Solomon jumped on his carpet and left.  Unfortunately for this legend, King Solomon died many centuries before the foundation of Persepolis. 

However, Salut is also associated with a battle between the Arabs who were arriving from Yemen into this region which was dominated by Persia, presumably the Achaemenids who did build Persepolis. There are several locations called ‘Salut’ in Oman, was our Salut this legendary location, or was it one of the other Saluts in Oman; textual evidence may be sparse but the antiquities here must favour our location.

My Bradt Guide to Oman includes Salut on page 238

University of Pisa Salut Oman; Part of the team. Tiziana De Gennaro -architect; Caterina Careccia -architect; Enrica Tagliamonte – Director archaeologist; Philip Ramorino – archaeologist.

Salut’s main complex was located on a small ‘tell’, the loanword from Arabic that means hill and in archaeology is now used to describe the mound of debris from man-made creations. Salut’s tell was in fact a limestone hill which rises about 20meters above the plain, completely covered by the debris caused by the collapse of the stones and mud bricks used in the construction of a fortified complex.

Tour Group at Bronze Age Tower - Salut - Oman
Tour Group I brought to Salut at a Bronze Age Tower excavation

The removal of the debris surrounding the complex at Salut required that walling which would then have collapsed be consolidated or partially rebuilt. This modern work, though authentic, is identifiable through the use of geotextile in stonework and specific use of straw within mud-plaster.

The core of the complex is a fortified site of around 3,200sqmeters with secondary complexs on the same hill that increases the site to around 13,000 sqmeters. What enhances the importance of the Salute area are the numerous associated structures which surround the ‘tell’.

Salut, like most other antiquities in Oman, was unexcavated until after 1970. It was first surveyed by Harvard University, then Jeffery and Jocelyn Orchard from  University of Birmingham Archaeological Expedition conducted a wider survey with some excavations.

The current survey by the Italian Mission to Oman of the University of Pisa , through the Office of the Advisor of his Majesty the Sultan for Cultural Affairs, was planned in late 2003 and the initial campaign undertaken in 2004 under the direction of Professor Alessandra Avanzini.

The excavations currently are held twice a year, currently under the immediate direction of Enrica Tagliamonte with supporting team. The University of Sorbonne conducts excavations with their own team outside the new boundary wall that surrounds the immediate area of the Salut hill.

On the upper area of the hill, the foundation of a major circular ‘tower’ was located. This is dated to the early Bronze Age 3,000-2,000BCE. The tower has been identified as a tomb, with scattered human skeletons associated with this structure. An irregular manmade platform surrounds this Bronze Age structure and this is the base for an Iron Age period complex of walled structures that represent distinct buildings from the early Iron Age 1,300-1,000BCE, Middle Iron Age 1,000-600BCE and later Iron Age600-300BCE.

Village at Salut - Oman
Village at Salut – Oman

The very prominent protruding tower on the north-east of the hill has material largely dating from the Islamic period, perhaps overlying an Iron Age foundation. A final reoccupation of the site occurred during the medieval Islamic period centred around 1200CE.

To the north-west of the hill is an excavated village, built on man-made terraces with evidence of Iron Age occupation.

Shrine and BeeHive Tomb - Salut - Oman
Shrine and BeeHive Tomb – Salut – Oman

Overlooking the fortification, to its north-east, is Jebel Sebekhi. Here are a number of ‘beehive’ tombs which date to the late Bronze Age 2000–1300 BCE. Sharing this hill is what is referred to as a shrine. This six-columned structure overlays one of the beehive tombs and has been rebuilt referring to examples from outside Oman. There are additional beehive tombs on a hill just north of Jebel Sebekhi.

Bronze Age Tower - Archaeological Site of Salut - Oman
Bronze Age Tower – Salut – Oman

Less obvious than the structures on Jebel Sebekhi are two towers built with monumental stone blocks. Though one being excavated by the University of Sorbonne lies outside the modern boundary wall the other is easily visited as it lies less than 400m north-west of the Salut hill.

Well in Bronze Age Tower - Salut - Oman
Well in Bronze Age Tower – Salut – Oman

Largely covered by silt from wadi floods this tower, when excavated, included not only the Bronze Age commonly associated with similar towers in Oman but additional external walling from the Iron Age. In common with most comparable towers in Oman there is a central well.

Sorbonne University excavations of Bronze Age Tower - Salut - Oman
Sorbonne University excavations of Bronze Age Tower – Salut – Oman

Bradt’s 5th guide to Oman 2022 has completely rewritten regional chapters and maps. These cover Oman from the tip of Musandam’s peninsula, through to the hotels near the border with Yemen. Available from June 2022 at most online book stores incl Bradt and Amazon. (my earlier 4th Edition of the guide is still available at Bradt and Amazon)

Associated with Salut’s Early Iron Age is a Falaj (here probably older than 500BC), one of Oman’s man-made irrigation systems, whose underground channel extends for over 4kms north of the site, tapping the aquifer of Wadi Bahla. This ancient irrigation system may have been a sophisticated adaptation to climate change occurring throughout the Middle East.

Bronze Snake from Archaeological Site of Salut - Al Balid - Oman
Bronze Snake from Salut – Al Balid – Oman

Archaeological Site of Salut appears to have had cultic associations with snakes, looking very similar to Oman saw-scaled viper (Echis omanensis) with both bronze and pottery examples. Other artefacts found have been bronze ladles, arrow heads, pottery, stone cylinder seals (from the tower N-W of Salut’s hill) and Carnelian beads.

UPDATE > An interesting YouTube video gives an impression of the possible appearance of the Bronze Age Towers, with real and digital sequences. It was made by, the French Government organisation to promote science, along with the input of the Université de Paris Panthéon-Sorbonne Team at Salut.

Salut is very worthy of being included in the Oman World Heritage Site listing by UNESCO and it will hopefully have the sign soon.

Author: Tony Walsh

Book author including the current Bradt guide to Oman

2 thoughts on “Salut Fort Bahla Oman Archaeological Site near Bisya is well worth visiting - if its made possible by the Oman government

  1. Wow. I have only read a passing mention of this site. It looks amazing. And snakes? That reminds me of some Mediterranean bronze age finds. Interesting for sure. I’d love for Oman’s preislamic culture to be documented more. I want to know what people believed before, how they lived day to day… Fascinating. Thank you.

    1. Amira, yep snakes (also worshipped at Samharam), quite realistic as well – they have to be Echis – like most/all others from Salut the one I used slithered to Al Balid 1000km away! The Salut site, like so many others in Oman, is under-written – the modern wall between the Pisa excavations and University of Sorbonne’s suggests why.

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