MY RECENT JOURNEY TO LUXOR, INCLUDED KING TUTANKHAMUN’S TOMB WITH THE QUIET SIMPLICITY OF HOWARD CARTER’S HOME near Egypt’s Valley of the Kings on the west bank of the Nile.
Tutankhamun, who ascended the throne at a mere nine years old and met an untimely death around 1323 BC at nineteen, might have faded into obscurity had it not been for the archaeological sensation of 1922. Howard Carter’s discovery of KV62, the boy king’s tomb, after years of seemingly fruitless excavations, remains a pivotal moment in archaeological history. Lord Carnarvon, Carter’s generous patron, was on the verge of abandoning the project when they struck gold – quite literally. Check the video I took on my visit – on YouTube below.
My descent into KV62 began on a sweltering Egyptian morning. The modern stairs, a stark contrast to the debris-filled passage Carter navigated, led me into a world apart. Each step creaked as I walked down, in the footsteps of ancient priests and modern explorers.
The antechamber, where Tutankhamun’s mummy now rests, surprised me with its stark simplicity. Stripped of all the artefacts that I am really looking forward to seeing in the new Grand Egyptian Museum when it opens, it now only holds the exposed mummified body of Tutankhamun. This austere setting, while a far cry from his original burial splendour, felt strangely fitting.
The original burial chamber itself, however, offered a glimpse into the past. Vivid scenes adorned the walls: Baboons, possibly representing the 12 hours of night, and images of Tutankhamun with Osiris, god of the afterlife. The depiction of Ay, Tutankhamun’s successor, performing the “Opening of the Mouth” ceremony was particularly interesting as some experts, especially Nicholas Reeves, believe the original imaging was actually for Nefertiti. He has done a matching of the profile with Nefertiti’s bust – and decided that they matched. The craftsmen must have been superbly consistent. This opening of the mouth ritual, performed with a ceremonial adze, symbolically restored the deceased’s ability to breathe, eat, drink, and speak in the afterlife.
It’s a reminder of the ambitious political manoeuvring that characterised ancient Egyptian society, even in the face of death, as Ay was not related to Tutankhamun, and made a power move while another contender, Horemheb, was away from the hub of Egypt’s power base.
Closer inspection reveals a story behind the artwork. Dark fungal spots marred the paintings, evidence of paint applied to walls that hadn’t fully dried—a clear indication of a rushed burial, possibly due to the young king’s unexpected death. The relatively simple artistic style, compared to the masterpieces found in the tombs of Nefertari or Seti I, further suggested a hurried preparation, with artisans working against time to complete the tomb’s decoration.
Visiting Howard Carter’s house offered a fascinating counterpoint to the tomb. Perched on a hill overlooking the road into the Valley of the Kings, the house was surprisingly modest, reflecting the unassuming nature of its former occupant.
Despite his world-changing discovery, Carter remained more interested in the wonders of the past than worldly possessions.
The house’s grounds held a hidden gem: a meticulously crafted replica of Tutankhamun’s tomb, his second tomb!! While lacking the spine-tingling authenticity of the original, it provided a valuable opportunity to study the tomb’s intricate details without the constraints of time and crowds. The replica also offered significantly better lighting than Carter himself had to contend with. I made full use of it.
The juxtaposition of these two sites – the authentic and the replica, the ancient and the modern – tells a powerful story. It’s a story not just of a young pharaoh and his discovery, but of humanity’s enduring fascination with uncovering and preserving our past.
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